New Haven Independent: End of An (Inj)Era

End of An (Inj)Era

by Paul Bass | June 30, 2008 8:34 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)

Gideon Gebreyesus had good news and bad news for the regulars at his popular Eritrean eatery.

It was the weekend before last. Tables at Caffe Adulis were filled with customers who had marked family milestones at the College Street restaurant over the past 17 years.

Gebreyesus brought each party the check, with a personal message.

“The good news,” he told people, “is we’re picking up the check.

“The bad news is you’re not going to have this kind of food for another year.”

cookingideong%20event%20047.jpg Gebreyesus (pictured) said Sunday night that the restaurant fell victim to a faltering economy. He said he plans to reopen Caffe Adulis in a smaller, less expensive space in New Haven a year from now.

“We need a break,” he said. “We love it. It’s our baby. It’s where our friends and our family grew up.”

He stressed that he had “no beef” with his landlord, Yale. He also said he’s been able to line up jobs at other restaurants for the Caffe Adulis staff, including some positions at Geronimo, a new Southwest-themed Crown Street eatery of which he is part owner.

Eritrean and Ethiopian food were a novelty when Gebreyesus, who came to this country from Asamara, Eritrea, in 1984, opened the doors to Caffe Adulis. And College Street, while already part of a gentrifying downtown, wasn’t yet the heart of a renowned restaurant district.

Caffe Adulis rapidly made a name — a nationally recognizedname — as a gem. It didn’t take long for New Haveners to master scooping up the lentil, lamb, and other spicy delicacies with spongy sourdough bread known as injera. A second African restaurant, Lalibella, opened a block away on Temple Street. College and Chapel and Temple Streets became filled with immigrant-run ethnic restaurants that became a magnet for diners from around the region, and the driver of a downtown revival.

Have any favorite Adulis memories? Post them below.

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Comments

Posted by: robn | June 30, 2008 8:46 AM

The first time I ate at Adulis, Gideon came up to me and shook my hand Like I was the Mayor of New Haven! ...and every time thereafter too.

New Haven needs more good solid citizens like Gideon Gebreyesus.

Posted by: Moira | June 30, 2008 9:12 AM

I'm so depressed. No more two tomato gig! No more smiling Gideon, who did a wonderful job with his staff of making Adulis the kind of place where you can eat, drink, and linger for hours. What are Yale's plans for the space? To open another Trailblazer store? ;o)

Posted by: sandstorm | June 30, 2008 11:39 AM

Gideon is a consumate host. For those of us
who have known him, through the years and the
venues (One Broadway, West of Eleven, Gentree and
Audobon's), we are happy to follow. My hope is that he takes pleasure in knowing how much we have all
enjoyed his gracious hospitality!

Restaurants are trendy and cyclical, but the
person and skill are not. Gideon is a wonderful
New Havener and an asset to our community.

Posted by: Chip Croft | June 30, 2008 11:38 PM

Gideon has been a mainstay in the downtown district for so many years. He is to be congratulated for all he has done for downtown! This is a hard town and a hard state for small business and Gideon and his family have succeeded where so many have failed. Adulis used to have the best New Years Eve partys in town. If you never attended one you really missed a great time.

Gideon is a consummate host and fortunately we will still be seeing him at Geronimo. Times are hard but I know when Adulis returns we will have a great welcome back party. Thanks Gideon!

Posted by: meredith | July 1, 2008 1:04 AM

Oh, no!!!

Caffe Adulis was by far my favorite restaurant in New Haven. My friends and I have celebrated countless milestones there ... this is a shocking loss for our community.

I really hope it returns in a year. With the economy the way it is, I must admit I'm skeptical ...

Posted by: EM | July 5, 2008 12:10 AM

Caffe Adulis was our favorite New Haven restaurant, and we were shocked to come by on July 4th and find it gone. Gideon, you had the best food and the best waitstaff in town. Good luck to you and your employees-- we hope very much to see you back in a year.

New Haven Independent

End of An (Inj)Era

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