Jake Brussel-Faria Photo
Kim.
When she moved to New Haven in late 1978, Yoon-ock Kim — then fully intending on returning to Korea — missed the tastes of home.
There was the salt and spice of certain dishes she couldn’t find in New Haven, not quite the culinary mix of flavors and cultures it is today. Familiar ingredients were missing from Italian markets that dotted Orange Street. So when she found a small Asian grocer in East Rock with the things she wanted to eat, she and the owner became fast friends.
When that owner decided to leave seven years later, Kim acted on an instinct: Taking over the business seemed like the right thing to do.
Now the owner of Oriental Pantry & Gifts on Orange Street, where her bi bim bap is something of a community treasure and well-kept secret among those who have tasted it, Kim says she’s happy she stayed — but that it hasn’t always been easy for her.
She sat down with the Independent to tell her story, as part of WNHH radio’s “Open for Business” series.
Why did you choose to come to New Haven? When did you come?
My husband was a student, that’s why I came here, and also I was studying at Southern, and my husband was studying at Yale. That’s why we came here. Our original plan was we were going to go back to my country, Korea. My husband wanted to teach there and I was a teacher, actually and I wanted to go back to my original job, that’s why I came here. But, everything is our plan, our human plan, but I think that the God plan is different. So I have to admit, that was my plan, not the God plan. So we ended up here. When that was going on I had so many things to do. I was a student-wife and I have to support my family. I have three children, so I was working and studying day and night, I worked so hard.
What’s your favorite thing to cook?
Bi bim bp. Bi bim means mix, bap means cooked rice and using Korean style means everything mixed together in it. But Americans, they eat it separate. That’s ok, your way.
You know bi bim bap is one of our nationality dish actually, the Korean national dish. Bi bim bap has lots of ingredients, usually I’m serving seven vegetables and rice and egg, that the basic. And we can serve it with tofu, sometimes chicken and beef. The beef bi bim bap is the most popular. So, one dish, I provide everything, whatever you need for your nutrition, nutrition wise, its very nutritious. And tasty. Tasty, it looks beautiful and very nutritious. I really enjoy cooking my bi bim bap. And also my spring roll is kind of famous. Many of my customers, say it’s the best thing about New Haven. They love my spring roll. I love to make spring roll also.
How did you decide to launch this business?
This shop was one of the original Asian groceries in New Haven, one of my friends, she started it actually – 1985. And she had to go back to her country, Korea and she asked me – at that time I was at Yale – and she was asking, “Why don’t you take over this store?” That was about two or three years. Two or three happy years and then I thought, why not. And since then I took up everything for about 30 years. And the store has changed a little bit and more improved. I like to work here. Yeah.
Did you have any experience running a restaurant before you started working here?
Not at all, my mother cooked. We had a small restaurant in Korea. My mother was a very, very nice cook, that’s why I started. I’m learning from my mother and I love to cook.
Many Korean students also come to my store. And for the summer vacation, usually go back to their home and then they come back. They come also through, directly here … and I ask them, “You didn’t have a good bi bim bap in Korea?” and they say, “Oh no! Not like here.” Yes, everybody likes my bi bim bap.
Who are your customers?
They are all post-doctorates and grad students, so many of my customers, they have that kind of degree and when they finish their duty, they go back to their country. And then they’re teaching over there, especially the Japanese. When they come back here, I’m still here and they’re so happy, “Oh you’re still here!” They’re so happy because, when they were students, I sold to them and I’m still here, and they have some real job and come back just to visit with their children and it’s kind of happy, it’s a kind of joy to meet them, to see them.
To listen to the full interview, click on or download the audio above. “Open for Business” is supported by Frontier. Frontier is proud to be Connecticut’s hometown provider of TV, Internet and Phone for your home and business. Their number is 1.888.Frontier and their website is frontier.com.
Absolutely one of my favorite places in New Haven, and I'm not a grad student or a post-doc. Sometimes the locals turn out to have a soft spot for bi-bim-bop, too!
I wish she could still get those salty-sweet puffed cracker things. They were a weakness of mine about eight years ago, but I haven't seen them in a while...