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Kabernet?

by Uma Ramiah | Jan 18, 2011 11:43 am

(15) Comments | Commenting has been closed | E-mail the Author

Posted to: Food, Downtown

Melissa Bailey Photo Duncan Goodall was tired of the New Haven nightlife scene. So he created his own—and may have started a new trend.

About a year ago, while trying to think of a place for wine and conversation with his wife and some friends, he had a flash of inspiration.

He thought of his own place—a coffee shop.

Goodall, who’s 39, owns Koffee? on Audubon, which launched New Haven’s coffeehouse-hangout culture back in the early 1990s. Now he’s looking to launch a new after-work element to that scene and perhaps spark more nightlife in the Audubon district, serving wine and cheese in the shop daily starting at 5 p.m.

“We’re calling it Koffee Afterdark,” he said.

“I just realized that I didn’t like bars anymore,” he said. “Most of the bars are so loud and packed, and my idea of an enjoyable scene had changed. Now, I just like enjoying a nice glass of wine, in a quiet place, with a few friends.”

Another coffehouse hangout across town, Manjares Pastry Shop at West Rock and Whalley avenues, also plans to begin serving wine, along with beer and tapas, in the third week in February. “I think we’ll do it Thursday through Saturday, after 5 p.m.,” said owner Ana De Los Angeles. Along with wine, she’ll be serving small Spanish style plates, as well as American style munchies.

“I live in a nice neighborhood, but they don’t have too many places for families to hang out,” said De Los Angeles. “People love the coffee shop, so one day I thought, ‘Let me see how I can bring tapas and wine and beer.’”

She’s been working on it for almost six months now, and she’s confident she’ll get her liquor license soon.

A Quiet Opening

Koffee? started serving wine and cheese on Jan. 3.  “It was a quiet opening,” said Goodall. And indeed, on Tuesday through Thursday last week, wine drinkers were scarce at the shop.

“It’s been pretty slow this week because of the weather,” said Hillary Stearns, a long time employee who returned to work for Koffee? in September. “But we’ve had people coming in for wine after work.”

Goodall said he’s just starting to get the word out. They’ve done little in the way of advertising, save a posting on the Koffee? Facebook page:

“Tired of New Haven’s bar scene?? Annoyed you have to YELL over music to have a conversation? Bothered you have to choose between Coffee or Wine?!

“If you answered YES to any of these questions… then you should come down to Koffee Afterdark! Every night at 5pm!”

Most “Afterdark” customers so far have been regulars, Goodall said. “They’re the people we see every day, who’ve seen our signage, and on a Thursday after work they might stop in for a glass or two.”

An Evolution

Allan Appel PhotoKoffee? opened up in 1992. Goodall, its third owner, bought the shop in 2002. It was the coffeehouse he frequented as an undergraduate.

“At that point, that part of town was very strange. It was a little bit more edgy, and there were more nightclubs and nightlife going on. It tended not to attract many people from Yale,” he said.

In the late 90’s, the area started to take on a different shape – closer to what it feels like today. So did Koffee?

“My overall goal has always been to build community within the university and the city,” Goodall explained. “And to create a more cohesive neighborhood feel to the place and the surrounding area.”

Enter wine and cheese. Goodall said he thought the concept would work well in a coffee bar atmosphere.

“I wanted to find wines that were affordable and good. I’m also trying to take the pretension off of wine, to make it more approachable,” he said.

“Good wine shouldn’t have to be about being a sommelier. It’s about tasting something good and enjoying it.”

At the moment, he has got six wines available (three whites and three reds) as well as a cheese platter for $12.

Uma Ramiah Photo “One of the most popular red wines so far is the Malbec,” said Stearns, working the Koffee? bar on Thursday night. She pointed on the menu to the Bodegas Goulait, from Argentina, served at $6 a glass.

“But my favorite is the Anakena. It’s got this peachy flavor that’s not overtly sweet,” she said. The Anakena, a Sauvignon Blanc from Chile, sells for $6 a glass as well.

Goodall has wines available from $6-7 a glass, and $20-25 per bottle. He plans to vary the menu as time goes on.

Goodall, a self-proclaimed “corporate refugee,” sees several potential target crowds for the “coffee plus wine” bar model. “One is the mid-30s-plus crowd like myself who prefer to be a little more calm and not drink to get drunk,” he said.

“And then there’s the group of people who work nearby and want to pop in for an after-work drink.

Goodall said it’d be great for undergraduates on dates, as well as one unusual crew. “I’ve discovered this odd group of students who like to study with a glass of wine,” he said. “A number of them have dropped us notes via Facebook, saying they love the concept.”

Ten Months of Red Tape

Back in February, wine on his mind, Goodall started that same long, trying process: applying for a liquor license.

“Getting a license in Connecticut is a difficult, painful process,” Goodall admitted. “Not to mention expensive.” He started the process in February of 2010 with the State Liquor Control Commission, seeking a license that would allow him to serve wine during the evening hours.

Goodall had to get signatures from various municipal departments including the city clerk, fire marshal, zoning board and health department. “And each of those required an inspection and a fee” ranging from $50-150, he said.

He applied for a specific license allowing him to serve wine, along with cheese, at certain hours. 

“If you call the liquor commission, their official rote answer is two to three months,” he said.  “But every other liquor license holder told me 9-12 months.” It took Koffee? 10 months.

This is Not a Bar

Goodall said he doesn’t worry that Koffee? will ever turn into one of those crowded, noisy bars he now avoids. “We’ve been very careful about how we’re doing this, and about maintaining the feel and the general feel of the coffee house.”

And they won’t do beer, or liquor, he said. Just wine. “We’re very intentional about that.”

“When people think about cheese and wine they don’t think about a party, whoop whoop, dance around and get wild!” he said with a laugh.

“Wine and cheese is much more down to earth. And that’s what we’re looking for.”

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Comments

posted by: Edgehood on January 18, 2011  12:34pm

‘Koffee’ may have been among the first coffee shops in New Haven but they did not single handedly launch ‘New Haven’s coffeehouse-hangout culture in 1992’ as the article states. The original Willoughbys (on Chapel Street, between Clair’s and the old Copper Kitchen)introduced New Haven to good coffee a long time before and lots of people hung-out there. Atticus Bookstore Cafe served a ‘bottomless’ coffee until 1991 (before they remodeled and expanded the menu) and a large crowd would be hanging-out there every afternoon…

With that said, ‘Koffee After Dark’ sounds like a great idea. New Haven definitely needs more social alternatives. I think that they are on the right track and wish them the best of luck.

posted by: juli on January 18, 2011  12:34pm

this looks like another lovely venue to relax, read a book, talk with some friends, or to school my boyfriend at scrabble.

see you soon!

posted by: JB on January 18, 2011  12:35pm

Goodall had to get signatures from various municipal departments including the city clerk, fire marshal, zoning board and health department. “And each of those required an inspection and a fee” ranging from $50-150, he said.

^^meaning, the Taurus Club had inspections by all those city departments and entities and PASSED.  That’s in direct contradiction to the Mayor’s big “we will fight this!” a few months after the application got stamped “good to go” by his people. 

Good luck to Koffee.  I haven’t been in, but I will.  Can’t beat a good inexpensive Malbec.

posted by: Truth Avenger on January 18, 2011  1:03pm

Sounds like a concept whose time has come… I look forward to checking it out… please have some Cabernet(king of reds)on hand. Nice report Uma, Thanks.

posted by: che on January 18, 2011  1:11pm

This is a great idea. Westville definitely would benefit from this idea. Manjares has the best coffee around and all the other bars are TOO loud. Sometimes you just want to go and have a glass of wine and enjoy the company of some good friends. I am sure that Manjares will do great. So, so looking forward to it. Wishing Koffee? and Manjares much success.

posted by: MRM on January 18, 2011  2:07pm

Duncan should think about bringing in a similarly narrow selection of craft beers.  Some folks don’t really like wine, but would definitely go for well-brewed beer.  I don’t know whether this is realistic, and know that he above has said that he isn’t planning on any beer.  A wine-only bar seems kind of like something which was novel in 1984.  I feel like the clientele that would be drawn to some rotating craft brews would not be slamming back 5 Rochefort 10’s and getting rowdy.

posted by: Howard Schultz on January 18, 2011  2:17pm

It’s such a great idea that Starbucks started testing it months ago.

http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/food/2010-10-18-starbucks18_CV_N.htm

posted by: JackNH on January 18, 2011  2:31pm

aEdgehood: in the 1970s, we had La Machinetti on Chapel St across from the Duncan, now a Thai restaurant.  Great cappuccino and napoleons.

posted by: East Rockette on January 18, 2011  3:21pm

Genius, thank you Duncan!

Another constituency: writers’ groups (& book groups). Last year we were looking for a good place for an evening writers’ meeting. Just somewhere cosy, licensed, and not too loud. There was really nothing, which just seems wrong in a college town. So glad to hear about this option - we will be in soon!

posted by: Wicked Lester on January 18, 2011  6:08pm

Edgehood, I’d like to add The Daily Cafe to your list.

posted by: Tracey on January 18, 2011  6:35pm

Zombies staring at laptops are indeed quiet, but who wants to drink with them?

posted by: meredith on January 18, 2011  11:56pm

I agree with MRM—Duncan really should reconsider his wine-only mandate and bring in a small, deliberate craft beer selection for those of us who also prefer quiet places to enjoy an evening drink, but are allergic to wine (like me) or just plain don’t like it.  I pair my beer with my food just like a wine maven does, there are plenty of well-made brews out there that would go nicely with a cheese plate.

Regardless, I think this is a great idea and wish him all the best with it.  I’ve been supporting Koffee? for years, it’s great to see a locally-owned business thriving downtown.

posted by: East Rockette on January 19, 2011  12:22pm

Thinks to self: if it started at more like 3.30 or 4pm, handy happy hour for parents of kids taking lessons at NMS :-)

posted by: streever on January 19, 2011  2:38pm

This is really cool.

Tracey, while I’ve been shushed in Koffee before by laptop zombies, I’ve just given them the look and gotten back to my social interactions.

Just bring your friends with you. It’s a nice mellow place to have a glass of wine without blasting music.

posted by: Daniel Casey on January 19, 2011  3:09pm

finally, a place where young, white parents can go without their dog & child. sorry for the snarkiness.

you know, there are plenty of “grown-up” bars in New Haven. that said another is a good thing. it’s a bit snobby though to only offer wine. just don’t go giving out 99 cent pitchers of swill or blare inane pop music and the diseased crowd of Crown Street will stay away. I’d gladly pay top dollar for a quality beer that I can sit and drink quietly while I read. but I’m a prole and not a member of the new haven gentry…damn, there’s that snarkiness again…

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