Alexandra Martinakova Photos
The lamb shank.
(Updated) Even for a group of Gen‑Z interns, it’s hard to resist the millennial charm of ROLi, the new Hungarian-influenced “modern European” restaurant that is set to open June 25 in Wooster Square on the corner of Olive and Chapel.
With its polished concrete floors, visible pipework, and floor-to-ceiling velvet curtains in a deep, saturated blue, the space leans into a familiar modern, industrial aesthetic complete with gold accents and mid-century modern globe-shaped light fixtures. During a soft opening preview, we were seated near the open kitchen, where a cinema-style marquee listing their featured dishes added a retro flair that was at once charming and nostalgic.
ROLi is clearly designed to be both seen and tasted, and throughout the night, the visuals did as much for our experience as the menu. “Very Instagram,” I scribbled in my notes — and sure enough, several other invited guests were busy snapping shots of the space’s carefully curated details. Our group was particularly drawn to the bar, tiled in a green that is not out of place on my Pinterest board, and highly reminiscent of a Parisian brasserie.
The food, despite its Hungarian notes, is billed by ROLi as “blending the rustic soul of traditional European cooking with the freedom and creativity of a modern kitchen,” according to a press release sent out by the restaurant. Chef Roland Olah has Hungarian roots, but was trained in classical French technique. The soft opening, which was not open to the public, was an opportunity to refine both the kitchen and front-of-house experience before officially opening.
We began with mocktails — all bright and citrus forward — which were a welcome relief from increasingly warm and humid Connecticut summer. I had the pleasure of trying the Green Gold: cucumber-forward, minty, and unexpectedly creamy from the addition of the avocado. As for the shared bites, we opted for the langos, a traditional Hungarian fried bread, and a whipped ricotta dip served alongside slices from a local bakery. Both were standouts from the night, especially the langos, with its golden fried exterior and all the decadence of a half-melted, garlicky cheese.
Langos, to share.
Among the mains, there was a clear divide. The lamb shank drew the most praise, with a rich, unmistakably Hungarian depth of flavor and a rustic presentation that felt true to its roots. The tuna niçoise — recommended by our server Amanda, who was warm and attentive throughout the evening — was also well received, though it strayed from its traditional French, cold composition. Similarly, the salmon was nicely cooked, the skin pleasantly crisp, and plated alongside a delicious pea purée and what the menu described as a “melody of English garden, snow & sugar snap peas.” Such poetry!
Unfortunately, my entrée — the chicken — fell a bit flat. While the flavors were terrific, the meat was noticeably dry, resting atop sweet potato mash and greens that felt somewhat haphazardly arranged. A generous pool of jus surrounded the dish, more reminiscent of a stew than the carefully composed plates one might expect from classic French training. The overall effect lacked the finesse the chef’s background promised.
This was the central tension we noticed throughout the evening: while the restaurant speaks the language of French technique, with its bistro-sized tables, café-style seating, and elegant glassware, and the menu spans much of continental Europe, the dishes shine brightest when they stay close to home and remain bold, hearty, and unpretentious. With such a deliberately styled space and a price point edging upscale, the overall experience therefore feels slightly mismatched. Or, as my generation might put it: it’s not giving what it’s supposed to give — especially if, like me, you’re navigating seafood allergies. (To their credit, allergens are clearly marked on the menu, which was a thoughtful touch!)
Nevertheless, ROLi fills a welcome niche in the city’s food scene, with its own distinctive spirit. With a bit more clarity around its identity, it could easily become a go-to for date nights or catch-ups with friends. We look forward to trying their Gen Z spritz — made, appropriately, with Genziello — another time.
A previous version of this story stated that ROLi would open June 21, when the opening date is in fact June 25. This review was written after attending a private soft opening.
