Today’s Special: Qulen’s Vegan ​“Wings”

Qulen Wright didn’t have ​“chicken” or ​“wings” in mind when he invented his latest main course dish.

Then his customers took a taste.

Inevitably, those two words came to mind.

“Everybody that tried it said that’s what it reminded them of.”

So there Wright was Wednesday, cooking up another batch of what have become known as ​“buffalo mushroom wings” in the kitchen at Ninth Square Market Caribbean Style, the vegan restaurant he runs at 89 George St. with his wife Elisha Hazel.

It’s not yet on the official web take-out menu. But you can order it nonetheless — and help a resilient small-business team continue weathering a public-health crisis by feeding New Haven healthful plant-based variations of island recipes passed down through generations.

Take-out and delivery orders will prove crucial to the ability of local restaurants like Ninth Square Market Caribbean Style to weather the pandemic during the coming months as Covid-19 cases climb and cold weather sets in. Call ahead at (203) 787‑9703 or click here to order online for curbside pick-up (but call and let them know if you want the buffalo wings). There is no indoor dining; you can order outside the door and wait there if you’d rather than call ahead. The restaurant is open Wednesdays and Thursdays from noon to 8 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays noon to 6 p.m.

Wright and Hazel have scrambled to keep their business afloat since the pandemic hit. They didn’t obtain any government small-business aid. So they made adjustments: Shortened hours, a pivot to full take-out business to keep costs down. They never relied much on indoor dining, anyway.

They have attracted some some new customers looking to paying new attention to what they put in their bodies in a pandemic. Mostly Wright and Hazel have scraped by through the continued patronage of loyal customers, vegans and meat-eaters alike, who have become hooked on the flavorful Caribbean cooking since the couple opened their restaurant in 2017.

I became an early fan. As a vegan, I had that rush of walking into a place where I could order anything on the menu. Paradoxically, I ended up ordering the same tripartite lunch combo plate every time after my second visit. No variation. For years. It was just that good; any time I considered ordering an alternative, I looked at the trays of smoky grilled jerk tofu, pillowy vegan mac n cheez, and fried sweet plantains … and couldn’t imagine any combination tasting better. And, time after time, after the final bite, I would inevitably drift into a food-bliss coma. I would somehow waddle and roll five blocks up Orange street back to my office, convinced that Wright and Hazel had hacked my DNA and cracked my endorphin code. Or else secretly sourced a vegan form of tryptophan.

But Wednesday that was about to change. Pandemics disrupt routines. And Wright had those new ​“wings” ready for tasting.

He developed the recipe for the dish after hearing that people wanted more alternatives for the ​“meaty” course for the combo plates. He took up the challenge.

He decided to riff on gobi Manchurian, an Indian dish he likes featuring batter-fried cauliflower tossed in spicy sauce.

So he began Wednesday’s prep with Portobello mushrooms. Chopped them. Rolled them in panko bread crumbs. Fried them crisp.

As for the sauce: tomatoes, chilis, garlic, oil, and onions.

He coated the shrooms in the sauce, threw scallions on top for a flavorful garnish.

Voila —Buffalo wings.

This being Ninth Square Caribbean Market, Wright wasn’t done. He had to combine the main course with the right sides. He chose sautéed kale and spinach for one side. For the other, seasoned rice.

Mmmmmmm .…

I can’t tell you if that tasted like ​“chicken wings.” Because I haven’t tasted chicken since 1982.

I can tell you that the new recipe sizzles with flavor and soothes with chewiness. I can tell you that the ​“buttery” greens and aromatic, tender rice complemented the wings just right.

And thanks to the dollop of mac n cheez Hazel added for old time’s sake, transcendence once more descended from food heaven. As for the pandemic — it faded like a forgotten bad dream.

Previous coverage of recommended take-orders to help keep local businesses survive the pandemic:

• Today’s Special: Haci’s Napoletana Pie
• Today’s Special: Fred & Patty’s Brie On Baguette
• Today’s Special: Nieda’s Moist Falafel