Snowbound, East Rock Shines

Ducks drifting in the current below the dam. Photographers out with their cameras. Joggers in bright orange jackets.

Even in winter after a snowstorm, East Rock Monday remained as much a part of the fabric of the city as ever.

East Rock’s system of trails along the Mill River is accessible from several points, from Orange Street north to the Eli Whitney Center at the border with Hamden. The covered bridge proved particularly picturesque Monday, as the snow stopped at its threshold. Inside the wood planks were as dry as ever. Now is as good a time as any to remind winter hikers to wear the right clothes and particularly footwear. Keeping your feet dry is the most important step in keeping them warm; in fact, on this hike I wore knee-high rubber rainboots with two pairs of thick wool socks underneath them, though good pairs of waterproof boots come in all shapes and sizes.

Crossing the bridge and taking the trail that followed the riverbank allowed views of the water and waterfowl huddling for warmth. Snow falling from the trees made ripples in the stream as if there were fish feeding. The patches of wetlands by the trail (which is elevated a couple feet above them) were now slushy ice. The ear could discern traffic on Whitney Avenue nearby, but bird calls and the rush of water over the dam to the north were both louder. In just a few minutes and without much effort, the trail afforded pastoral views of a snowy East Rock.

It was also a chance to bump into other people. A pair of photographers took in the footbridge. John Steadman (pictured), 25, is a graduate student at the Yale Divinity School. ​“I’m from Tennessee and I like to go hiking and exploring,” he said. When he moved to New Haven, he thought he would have to leave that behind, until his friends told him about East Rock. He’s now a frequent visitor.

“I come here because it’s one of the few places I can walk around and think,” he said. ​“And it feels a little homey, right here in the city.”

Even by mid-morning, the trails along the water were well-worn and easy to follow. If you happened to be the first one on the trail in winter, the way is marked by trail signs and the white blazes on the trees. It’s important to stay on the trails both for safety and for the health of the forest around you. Taking the trail from the river to the summit of East Rock in winter can be tricky, as the trail doubles back on itself a few times. But the blazes will show you the way; if you don’t see one in front of you, look around to see if the trail has taken a turn you might have missed. I admit I overshot a turn early on, but found my way back onto the marked path.

In any case, the trail intersects with the road to the summit at several points. The road makes getting to the top extremely easy, and the views from it aren’t bad at all.

In some stretches of the road, it can feel as if you’re still in the woods. High up enough on the road and the sounds of the city fall away; there’s just the sound of birds and, increasingly, wind.

Though the summit trail in winter has its own pleasures. A good snowfall buries the small stone staircases built into the trail deeply enough that (apparently) a good cross-country skier can use them.

Just as with hiking in wilderness mountains, you know you’re close to the top of East Rock when the trees above you start giving way to sky. Near the top, the trail, buried in snow, becomes not entirely worth it. It parallels the road, which it’s right next to, and is also much closer to the edge of the cliff face and more slippery. Now is a great time to say it: Please do not go anywhere near the edge of the cliff on East Rock in winter. Okay?

Walking the last part of the trail along the road gives you a chance to meet more people, too. Marvin Wint (who politely declined having his picture taken), 33, works at Yale and is an avid amateur photographer. I joked that walking up East Rock in the winter was a little crazy. ​“It’s not so crazy when the road is plowed for you,” he said.

“I kind of wanted to see the city snow-covered,” he continued. ​“I come up here all the time after work. It’s cool to see it in a different light.”

For a short hike, East Rock offers big payoff. On the other side of the valley, West Rock is clearly discernible against the horizon.

It’s easy to see how Sleeping Giant, to the north, got its name.

And there’s the city of New Haven itself. On a clear day, you can see all the way across East Rock to downtown and beyond, down to the harbor and across the Long Island Sound to Long Island itself. Even in the middle of winter.