Manjares Fills After-Dark Void

Sitting at a quiet table in Westville’s Manjares Cafe, architect Eric Epstein found the perfect prescription for his long day of demolition work and fierce hunger in a hearty bowl of sancocho moca — a corn on the cob stew of plantain, yucca, chicken, beef, pork, and mixed vegetables, into which he toppled a scoop of fluffy white rice.

“I don’t know what any of these things are, but I love it…. And I’m so glad they have beer,” he said, with a froth-rimmed glass of Corona waiting in reserve.

Westville’s mere mortals have been enjoying the fare at Manjares (the slogan is ​“food for the gods”) since it opened in Westville six years ago. Known for its fresh-baked pastries, juice bar, robust coffee, and appealing breakfast and lunch menus, the cafe recently launched an effort to help fill the void in evening dining venues in Westville Village since the loss of Delaney’s Restaurant and Taproom to a catastrophic fire 15 months ago.

Some of the Delaney’s staff were absorbed by the nearby Stone Hearth Restaurant, which, like Delaney’s, is managed by Peter Gremse. But the former Delaney’s lot remains empty as potential developers consider the feasibility of building on the site. And Westville Village, while bustling with new businesses and cultural events and daytime coffee and brunch options, has been lagging in the after-dark dining department.

So Manjares is now open evenings from Wednesday through Saturday. Dining menu items reflect the cuisines of the cultures of owner Ana De Los Angeles of the Dominican Republic and her husband, Miguel Trelles of Puerto Rican and Cuban heritage, with a number of ​“unique Latin fusion dishes.” 

“Salmon Hawaiano,” sprinkled with lemon and capers served on a slice of grilled, fresh pineapple and arugula garnish, had a delicate, addicting tartness. With a choice of sides, I passed on the mashed yautia, a traditional, tropical tuber with a yam-like texture, choosing instead a side of rice and black beans. A good pour of Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha wine (rich and full-bodied with ​“jam, cherry, and blackberry flavors”) from the excellent list of Spanish, Latin, and California wines was moderately priced and a good pairing for many menu items. Dinner was topped off with a slice of tres leches cake (three milk cake), a dessert that will have diners asking for the rest of the cake. 

Part of the restaurant’s makeover and extended hours also includes a happy hour from 4:30 to 6 p.m. (Wed. to Sat.) with $2 bottle beers, tortilla chips to accompany ​“Ana’s fresh-made guacamole,” and other small plates, including Alita’s BBQ wings.

Some may remember the restaurant’s first foray into night time dining a few years ago. With a focus on Spanish tapas, the cuisine was well received, but De Los Angeles said that staffing issues, including the departure of the head chef back to the Dominican Republic, ultimately resulted in returning to a breakfast-lunch focus. 

When the adjoining storefront became available, Manjares rented the space, and for a season, sold premium gelato, adding a ping pong table and other activities for customers. While the gelato freezer and ping pong table are no more, the space, now open to the main dining room, is frequented by Manjares’s drop-in and laptop cultures. Several plush sofas give the space a living room feel, while large farm tables make it ideal for meetings. 

A growing number of organizations are taking advantage of the convivial atmosphere and hosting services. In recent days, the space has hosted Green Drinks, an informal gathering of people interested in the environment and sustainability, a CEIO (Co-Creating Effective & Inclusive Organizations) meeting, and Site Projects, where the ​“public art people” held a staff meeting.

Colorful globe paper lanterns lend a festive atmosphere to a space that is also transformed into a venue for birthdays, receptions, holiday parties, or music and open mic events.

Bold, graphic paintings of Miguel Trelles enliven the restaurant walls. A painter, printmaker, and college professor, Trelles covers a range of figurative and landscape themes that embody the spirit of the expressive, color-saturated Fauvist palette.

In his Chino-Latino painting series, calligraphic shapes and paint strokes swirl about the active surfaces of his canvases, hinting at the artist’s interest and appropriation of idioms from dynastic China.

Trelles acknowledges the influences of Chinese history, art, and culture — the result of much scholarly inquiry — and its synthesis with the Caribbean landscape motif and attendant sociopolitical themes. But his work, he said, ​“reflects my education as a Westerner and Caribbean sensibility conditioned by Pop [Art].”

As Manjares continues transitioning, some issues — like an upgrade in exterior lighting and improved signage — need to be addressed. Inside, a soft breeze from slow-turning ceiling fans and rhythmic Latin music combine for a relaxed ambiance. The friendly, unpretentious atmosphere may soon extend the oft-heard moniker of Manjares as ​“Westville’s living room” to ​“Westville’s dining room.”

Manjares is located at 838 Whalley Ave., with its entrance on West Rock Avenue next to Stone Hearth Restaurant. To see the menu, visit the Manjares Facebook page.