A&I Puts Fashion Forward

Yale Repertory Theatre was the setting on a chillier than typical Saturday in June for a cool combination of events presented by the International Festival of Arts and Ideas, both featuring local designer and cool cat himself, Neville Wisdom. 

The first event was a screening of the film The Wisdom of Fashion, a documentary directed and produced by Aaron Peirano Garrison and featuring the Jamaican-born designer who has made New Haven the home of Neville Wisdom Designs since 2008. The second event, ​“Designing Looks and Wearing Culture,” was a conversation between Wisdom and designer Prajjé Oscar Jean-Baptiste — creative director and owner of Prajjé Oscar, known from the most recent season of Project Runway — moderated by Garrison. Both events gave insight not only into the making of a designer, but the perseverance required to continue to create art and the importance of creativity and fashion as a driving force to lift others. 

The first event began with Garrison introducing himself and ​“the first version” of his film, which he said he began four years ago, calling it an ​“intimate look” into Wisdom’s life.

“Neville is a kind soul who genuinely invited me into his life,” he said, noting that the film was a work in progress; he hoped to soon be ready to bring the film to larger audiences in both the U.S. and Jamaica. 

The film begins with Garrison narrating, reiterating the sentiments of his connection with Wisdom. ​“I was looking for work but found friendship,” he says, as we get our first glance of Wisdom in Jamaica. 

The movie balances Wisdom’s stories past and present, moving from his humble beginnings in Saint Mary Parish to his fun and funky fashion shows throughout New Haven over the past few years, stopping to consider the connections he has made and continues to forge and foster, particularly with young designers he mentors and collaborates with. 

Throughout the film, whether we see Wisdom at his studio creating one of his unique 100 Day Challenge dresses (from a self-imposed challenge that saw Wisdom creating a new design each day for 100 days) or cutting away the overgrowth of grasses to get to his former childhood home, the viewer is privy to the man in the moment, where he himself says he is at his most creative and aware, never feeling as if we are intruding. If anything, the introspection presented further highlights that the connection he has to fabric and fashion feels as organic as his connection to his family and friends. 

Those familiar with Wisdom and his work will enjoy the moments from local events, such as his many indoor and outdoor fashion shows, featuring customers as some of the models (in the interest of full disclosure, one model was this reporter), but even those of us who have frequented his shows and stores can learn about the man behind the brand, whose focus never seems to stray from finding and sharing beauty while helping to cultivate it in the next generation of designers.

“We all need to retrace our steps to find that child that dreams,” Wisdom says in the film. Even Garrison notes that by mentoring young creatives and sharing his space with them, Wisdom is ​“figuring out a way to empower community.”

“Community should benefit community,” Wisdom says. ​“I want to make a positive impact on society through fashion.”

That impact was discussed further at the conversation following the film. Wisdom and Prajjé Oscar came to the stage with Garrison, who presented the two with questions of his own and questions sent in by audience members via a QR code on the back of the program.

The lively and illuminating discussion highlighted the designers’ similarities. Both credited their familial roots in their approach to design.

“My brand is bringing details I grew up with, but making it modern,” said Prajjé as he described the influence his grandmother had on his designs. He mentioned later that he still wore her accessories. He also said he had spent a lot of time on the farm and had even ​“made clothes for the corn,” which he added with a laugh. 

Wisdom noted that although he had been influenced by Vogue magazines and black and white films, there was also ​“that Jamaican energy.”

“We like to dress up and go out and party,” he added. ​“Mom said, ​‘if you leave the house, be ready to go anywhere.’”

To that end, he sees his designs as a ​“combination of classic designs with a little funk.” But he is always evolving.

“I’m still learning … still trying to find myself,” he said.

In terms of business models, both designers discussed the importance of being themselves and not succumbing to the repetition and pitfalls of fast fashion.

“I want my brand to be something different,” Prajjé said. ​“I don’t want you to walk in the room and everyone looks like you.”

Both designers dove into the reimagining of their businesses in light of Covid shutdowns and restrictions, each finding success with mask making. Prajjé also focused on a line that had people ​“looking good from the waist up” and followed the practice of ​“don’t produce it if you’re not selling it.”

Wisdom talked about closing two locations and moving into his current space on Broadway. It features the ​“atelier in studio … all connected in one,” which gives the customer ​“a taste of the process of clothes.” He also found a growing concern about the environment. ​“Fabrics are my thing,” he said. ​“We use whatever we have access to.” 

And he remains present. ​“For right now I want to be an artist,” he said. ​“I want to enjoy the process of design without limitations.”

In terms of creative process and inspiration, Prajjé talked about moving more into making clothes ​“you can pass down to your kids” and taking notes from what he sees on the street. ​“Everything moves me,” he said. 

Wisdom also talked about how seeing someone on the street can spark an idea, saying his brain processes ​“like an Alice In Wonderland situation … it blossoms into something.”

“There’s never a wrong time for inspiration,” he added. ​“It’s difficult to break away from it.”

When asked about how they changed as the world changed and continues to change due to the pandemic, each designer spoke in terms of their resilience. 

“It’s not just about me,” said Prajjé. ​“I’m thinking about my class, the boutiques, Macy’s … we’re going to rebuild. Fashion has always been my therapy. During the pandemic it was definitely my therapist.” He said he would keep going. Wisdom agreed, saying he learned resilience at an early age and was ​“firm” about who he wanted to be from early on.

“I just think about what I am going to do. I keep my positive attitude.”

Audience inquiries ranged from asking who their dream clients might be (Prajjé cited Whitney Houston, Michelle Obama, and Rihanna) to new designers they loved (Wisdom cited local designer Dwayne Moore, who works with him in his studio), and everyone was reminded of and invited to the Iconic Connections Expo, a fashion show being held a few hours later where their designs along with the work of three other designers would be featured. It was an apt way to end a day where the fashion community was recognized as one we can all be a part of.

“I think about fashion from an everyday phase,” said Wisdom. ​“It’s all we do. We all have our own fashion, and I love that people can celebrate that.”