RABHYA MEHROTRA PHOTO
Inside El Segundo.
Rust, holding braised pork shoulder straight out of the oven.
Mexican street food has moved into New Haven’s newest mini-neighborhood.
“With the corrugated iron and graffiti, it feels like you’re at a bodega in the Bronx,” said Andrey Cortes.
Cortes and co-owners Shawn Longyear, Chris Hickey, Chris Rasile, and Carlos Baez (also head chef) have opened up El Segundo in The Audubon, a new 269-apartment mixed-use complex rising on a mega-block’s worth of former surface lots at Grove, Orange, Audubon, and State Streets.
The co-owners participated in a ribbon-cutting Tuesday along with city officials and Spinnaker Real Estate Partners, which was also marking the completion of the first phase of developing the Audubon.
El Segundo’s menu is described as international street food. Dishes hail from 28 countries, all the way from Mexico to Antarctica. The menu changes each summer and winter, providing fresh ingredients and seasonal international food.
Popular dishes include the Tacos Al Pastor, which piles marinated pork, grilled pineapple, and arból sauce into a corn tortilla as well as the Banh Mi, a French-Vietnamese sandwich consisting of braised pork, pâté, pickled daikon and carrots, cucumbers, and a cilantro garnish.
The sandwich is one of sous chef Chris Rust’s favorite dishes. “I marinate pork shoulders for twenty-four hours, and then braise them for two hours after that,” he said. The pâté is freshly made in-house.
It’s clear that the cooks at El Segundo take pride in their food. “For our fried noodles, we’ve been sourcing ingredients from local Asian markets to make sure we have an authentic taste,” Rust added. So far, they’re gone to Hong Kong Grocery on Whitney Avenue for noodles.
Although the restaurant had not yet opened for the day, cooks had already begun preparing for the ribbon-cutting, slicing meats for the Cubanos, making gravy for the poutine, boiling potatoes for the Nicoise salad.
Mashing the plantains.
One particularly fun process to watch: The mashing of the plantains. They’re cubed, dropped into a hot fryer, mashed into flat patties, and finally fried a second time.
“We anticipate whatever demand’s going to be,” said Rust. On Taco Tuesdays, patrons can indulge in all-you-can-eat tacos for $16. The restaurant has many community events advertised. This Saturday, there’s a “Wag O Ween” for dogs at 3 p.m. and Dia de Los Muertos dinner with costumes and jello shots at 6 p.m.
Despite their different backgrounds, the five owners of the restaurant all had personal ties to the cuisine.
“A lot of us grew up poor or middle class,” said Cortes. “We enjoyed street food from all different countries, and the vibe.”
“When we go on vacation, we ask bartenders and cooks where they go to eat,” added Longyear. “We’ve fallen in love with street food.”
Although the restaurant’s menu focuses on cuisines from all around the world, the primary inspiration came from Mexico — particularly street food markets in Mexico City.
“I’ve always felt that the taco was the ultimate street food,” said Cortes. “It was the launching point for our menu.” Head chef Carlos Baez also hails from Mexico; his father had a taqueria while he was growing up.
Why New Haven? “International cuisine is often geared towards a younger crowd,” said Longyear. “There are so many colleges in New Haven, and that means students from all around the world. It’s a fit for everyone.”
Three of the five co-owners, left to right: Cortes, Longyear, Hickey.
City officials and Spinnaker CEO Clay Fowler also attended the ribbon-cutting. (Read about the Audubon’s development here and here.) El Segundo’s opening marks completion of the Audubon’s Phase I development.
“I remember when this was a parking lot just a few years ago,” said Mayor Justin Elicker. “The creativity and vision to transform it into something is amazing.”
“This will benefit the almost 14,000 residents who live in Wooster Square and Downtown,” said Mike Piscitelli, the city’s economic development administrator.
The ribbon cutting
“I have some branding advice for you,” joked the mayor. “When people order for their food, it’s ready in ‘el segundo.’ And when they’re done eating, they know they’ll come back ‘el segundo’ time.”
Ultimately, the restaurant both pays homage to – and inspires – world travel.
“I love the Goi Du Du salad, with the papaya, mango, and squid,” said Hickey. “It’s made me want to go to Vietnam.”
Except for hipsters, likening a restaurant to a bodega in the Bronx is probably not good marketing. 😷. More seriously, I'm looking forward to checking this place out.
Any bets as to how long it will take for 3/5ths to note that this is further evidence of gentrification vampires?