Emily Hays Photos
Saba (mackerel) sashimi.
Chef Sunny Cheng slipped a tiny sculpture under the plexiglass around his sushi bar. A transparent pane of kombu (seaweed) topped a delicate slice of mackerel and ball of rice.
He pushed the plate with the saba sashimi towards me, as though he were letting me in on a secret.
Even with his mask hiding half of his face, Cheng’s joy radiated through his downtown eatery, Otaru Sushi Bar.
“Before, you asked which one is my favorite,” Cheng said.
Mackerel is heavier and fattier than many types of sushi, so this is not everyone’s favorite dish. Cheng likes the bold, flavorful sushi best though.
Cheng instructed me to eat each piece of sashimi in one bite.
My first thought was about the saba’s citrus and ginger taste. I noticed the fishy taste of the mackerel last. It was delicious … and gone too soon.
Take-out and delivery orders will prove crucial to the ability of local restaurants like Otaru to weather the pandemic during the coming months as Covid-19 cases climb and cold weather sets in. Call (203) 891- 6632 to order the saba sashimi and other dishes for take-out at 21 Temple St. Hours are 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays; 4 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
Cheng and his wife, Kathy, founded Otaru at the corner of Temple and George streets in 2019. The restaurant was focused on omakase, or a set of dishes recommended by the chef.
The pandemic disturbed that close chef-customer relationship. The Chengs now do 85 percent of their business through takeout and have slimmed down their menu to focus on dishes that will keep customers coming back.
“Instead of variety and fancy [dishes], we focused on consistency in the menu to survive,” Kathy said.
The menu still seemed creative and fancy to me.
To make the saba, Chef Cheng marinates the mackerel in advance with salt and rice vinegar for about an hour. Then he washes the fish with more vinegar and slices it to put on the ball of rice. The rice is made with its own mixture of salt, vinegar and sugar. The final ingredients are kombu and a dollop of ginger-scallion paste.
The couple suggested that I try the omakase sushi dinner, available for takeout for $58. The dinner consists of nine pieces of sashimi chosen by the chef, one set of rolls, miso soup and a seaweed salad.
Each piece of sushi was as elaborate as the saba. Eating through the plate felt like a tour in cooking techniques. I could almost hear the voice of celebrity cooking instructor, Samin Nosrat, gleefully pointing out the kinds of salt used for each piece.
Cheng topped one slice of tuna belly with caviar (far left above). Another piece had a single leaf on top that tasted like sea salt.
Cheng had blow-torched one of my favorite pieces, a slice of yellowtail with a piece of banana pepper on top (far right above). The smokiness reminded me of childhood barbecues with my extended family.
The variety of flavors work best together, which is why Cheng hesitated to pick a favorite. And seasons play a role in when different kinds of fish are more or less fatty.
“All the flavors are different in omakase. Which one [should I pick]? I have to try every one,” Cheng said.
After I thought I was done, Cheng brought out one last sculpture. It was a maitake mushroom from a local farmer’s market, set atop another ball of rice. Lightly battered, the mushroom looked like a bejeweled tree.
I was well past full. I savored it anyway.
Previous coverage of recommended take-orders to help keep local businesses survive the pandemic:
• Today’s Special: Haci’s Napoletana Pie
• Today’s Special: Fred & Patty’s Brie On Baguette
• Today’s Special: Nieda’s Moist Falafel
• Today’s Special: Qulen’s Vegan “Wings”
• Today’s Special: Aaron’s Peruvian Rice Bowl
• Today’s Special: Singh Bros.’ Chana Kulcha
• Today’s Special: Grandma’s Chicken Soup
• Today’s Special: Woody’s Steak & Shrimp
• Today’s Special: Shilmat’s Yemisir Sambusa
• Today’s Special: Arjun’s Vegetarian Manchurian
• Today’s Special: Mohammed’s Bhel Poori
• Today’s Special: Francesco’s Tortelli
• Today’s Special: Seikichi’s Sushi
• Today’s Special: Ketkeo’s Khao Poon
• Today’s Special: Mike Fox’s French Toast
• Today’s Special: Zhang’s Squirrel Fish Dish
• Today’s Special: Jessica’s Gumbo
• Today’s Special: Kenny Kim’s Vegan Ramen
• Today’s Special: Ernesto’s Venezuelan Arepa
• Today’s Special: Corey’s “Prison Reformer” Frank
• Today’s Special: Bryan’s Butter Chicken Pie
• Today’s Special: Jared’s Super Supreme Baked Potato
• Today’s Special: Craig’s Breakfast Reuben
